Newsletter 7 - July 2013

The Canada Alaska Highway – Alcan – stretches for 2,288 Kms from Dawson Creek (British Columbia, Canada) through to Delta Junction, (Alaska USA). It was after the bombing of Pearl Harbour in 1941 that construction of a highway was deemed a military necessity as a supply road to defend North America against the Japanese. More than 11,000 American troops, 16,000 civilian workmen (from Canada), literally carved out the road from the wilderness in eight months (from March to September, 1942). They averaged eight miles of road a day.

Start of the next adventure

So Dawson Creek has a Mile Zero Cairn and using a publication called Milepost we are able to track every point of interest along the route.

Mile zero marker

The first hundred kilometres of the Alaskan Highway winds through lush farmlands of the Peace River District. Natural gas was first piped from here in 1957 and the area is rich in natural resources; oil, gas, timber, pulp, hydroelectricity and agriculture. It also has thousands of acres of pristine wilderness with plenty of wildlife. The road was easy travelling and there was plenty of truck traffic and RV holiday makers. We camped that night at Fort St John in a Rotary RV Park on Charlie Lake - great opportunity to display achievements of the local Rotary Club.

The local Rotary Club own the park and lease it out over summer - great income and a good way to publicize Rotary

After Fort Nelson the road is considered the most scenic as it heads into the northern Rockies. 

The long and winding road...

It follows the river canyons with magnificent folded mountains and river views, and then skirts the shore of blue/green Muncho Lake for about 12 kms. 
There were many camps along here, with places to fish and hike.

Sawtooth Mountains

We were also warned to watch for animals and the day we were here we saw a grizzly bear, a black bear, (both too quick for photos), a herd of Woodland Bison with lots of calves, many Stone Sheep, an elk and a moose. 

The locals say that there are only two seasons in the north, winter and the road construction season

Muncho Lake view

So we’ve ticked off most of the animals we’d hoped to see – but still haven’t seen a wolf.

Woodland Bison roam freely along the side of the road

You never know what is going to come out of the forest.  This is a female elk.

Stone Sheep

A small private campground at Tetsa River bakes large world famous cinnamon buns, so afternoon tea went on long enough to stay the night.

Great cinnamon buns - but that beard - now that is something to strive for.

So we arrived about lunch time at Liard Hot Springs, one of our favourite camps. 

Great Provincial Park campground at Liard Hot Springs

It was the site of a major construction camp in 1942 and now the provincial parks have built a boardwalk to the springs – and they are hot, too hot for swimming! We spent some time in the water and had to move downstream a bit. 

The spring comes out at the far end at about45C and gradually cools off as it gets to the lower pool.

Standing in the water, the bottom of the stream is cooler and the top layer of water is hot. We could feel the definite thermal layers.

Welcome to the Yukon

The information centre at Watson Lake is surrounded by a “signpost forest”.

Signpost Forest at Watson Lake

People have been adding them since the construction of the highway. At the last count there were 72,000. We did see a number plate from Tasmania.

Lots of big rivers - lots of big bridges

Most of the bridges have metal grating surfaces. Teslin Bridge spans the Nisutlin River and the camp was on the edge of the lake. 

Bridge at Teslin

This site was one of the original lodges on the Alaska Highway with abundant wildlife (and fishing) in the area. There was a wonderful collection of “stuffed” animals in the complex too.

"Stuffed" sheep

The real thing - note the goats in the background

The mozzies were pretty fierce here but the sprays worked well when we were out of doors.

Tlingit Heritage Centre Totem Poles

The Tlingit Heritage Centre had a large hall and showcased the history of the First Nation People from the area, which we found very interesting. There were a series of totems representing Wolf, Beaver, Eagle, Frog and Raven Clans.

George Johnston, a Tlinglit Indian, was known for his fine photography capturing the lives of his people between 1910 and 1940 and the video of his life gave us a good insight of his people.

George Johnston had the first car in Watson Lake in 1928.  He floated it in on a barge.  There were no roads so he and his family cleared a road and he gave rides to family and friends.  He painted the car white in the winter and drove it on the lake for ice fishing

So at almost 888 miles (1430 kms) from cairn zero miles, we were in the biggest city of the Yukon, Whitehorse, on the upper reaches of the mighty Yukon River. The city nestles on a flat area on the western edge of the river, with abrupt escarpments on either side of the river, while the airport sits above the city on the “mountain top”.

It was a fun town with lots of interesting things to see.

Skagway art for the cruise boat passengers

We went on the bus/train to Carcross 

Carcross railway bridge - site of an old caribou herd crossing

and down the White Pass- the line was built during the Klondike Gold Rush, 

White Pass railway to Skagway

Snow clearing engine - no longer needed as the railway only works in the summer months

and even though the weather was fine when we left, it was foggy all down the mountain and drizzling in Skagway.

Downtown Skagway on a wet and windy day

There were two huge cruise boats in port so the town was busy.

Scrimshaw art on a whales vertebrae

Back in Whitehorse we went to see the salmon ladder – a series of stepped ponds that the salmon can jump up, to get around the dam wall, 

Whitehorse fish ladder

and in the evening we were entertained by the Frantic Follies. 

Whitehorse Frantic Follies

After leaving the theatre at about 10.30 it was quite strange to be walking back to the vehicle with the sun “far from set”, and street lights on. 

Whitehorse main street - photo taken at 11.00pm

 As you leave the city, Woolly Mammoths, (their fossils and bones have been found here), farewell you from the Beringia (Ice Age) Interpretive Centre, 

You never know what is going to come out of the forest.

while the largest weather vane, a DC3, pivots on a stand and the lightest breeze turns it to show the direction of the wind.

Great wind vane - the whole plane swings around with the wind.

Just the thing for those rough roads when the Alcan higway was first opened in the '40s.

From Whitehorse to Dawson City we followed the mighty Yukon River, stopping a night at a rest area above Five Fingers.

The walk to Five Fingers lookout at the island in the river included 230 steps down but it felt like a lot more coming back up.

The conglomerate rocks used to cause big navigating problems with the sternwheelers travelling the river.

S.S. Keno sternwheeler at Dawson City

We walked down to the river the next morning – our hike for the day.

This person obviously didn't appreciate the majesty of where they lived.

Dawson City is a small town with a huge personality.  After gold was discovered in Rabbit Creek in 1896 the lure of adventure and fortune led to the Klondike gold rush. 

First entry into Dawson City through the tailing piles

Rock tailings are piled high in the valleys – mainly from the huge dredges that were used to get the gold from above the bedrock up until 1960.

Dredge No4 at Dawson City

There were many log cabins in the Yukon. 

Original log cabin at Dawson City

The lodge pole pines grow straight and almost uniform in thickness so are very easy to use for building.
Today Dawson City is a living museum. 

Downtown Hotel Dawson City

Red Feather Saloon Dawson City

Boardwalks line the gravel streets and many of the old buildings have been restored.  You can pan for gold, visit Diamond Tooth Gertie’s Gambling Hall to see the Can-Can dancers 

Can-Can girls at Diamond Tooth Gertie's Gambling Hall

or have a bet on the tables.

Diamond Tooth Gertie's Gambling Hall

Sleeping can be a problem with the sun shining for more than 20 hours a day and the sky never getting dark.  

Klondike Kate's Restaurant

Life goes on at a furious pace with only about 90 days frost free each year.  The locals who spend winter here told us that it is just like another world, with temps going as low as -40*C.

Some literary greats have lived in Dawson City including Robert Service, Jack London and Pierre Berton.  

Robert Service's log cabin in Dawson City

We likened Robert Service to AB Paterson in the way he writes about the happenings on the goldfields - the characters, the humour and the lifestyles. (Google him-"The Cremation of Sam McGee".)

We spent Canada Day (1 July) in Dawson City 

The Mounties lead the parade on Canada Day

and had a beautiful day for the local festivities – sourdough pancakes for breakfast, the parade, 

Canada Day parade in Dawson City

raising the flag and high tea at the Commissionaires’ House Museum.

This was the home of the "Governor" of the Yukon Territory

 The highway from Dawson City to the Yukon/Alaska border begins with catching the George Black Ferry across the Yukon River. 

Overlooking Dawson from the road to the Golf Club.  The Klondike River joins the sediment laden Yukon River on the right hand side.

It is mainly gravel and closed in winter.  It is called “Top of the World” highway and I guarantee we will never forget this adventure.  

"Top of the World" views

Unlike most highways here, which follow valleys in mountain ranges, this road winds its way along the top of the range, often above the tree line, giving exhilarating views and a unique scenic drive for about 100km. 

View from the Top of the World Highway

We experienced endless views of mountains and valleys in all directions.  It is truly a “road less travelled”.

Canada-USA Border Post on the "Top of the World" Highway
Little Gold Creek, Yukon
Poker Creek , Alaska

The US end of the road has far more potholes, was dusty and generally made travelling behind other RVs and trucks very unpleasant.

The community of Chicken, Alaska is in a valley on the Chicken River. 

"Downtown" Chicken is a bit over the top for this place

Two prospectors who first found gold here wanted to call it Ptarmigan but couldn't agree on the spelling when it came to registering their claim so they called it Chicken. 

Restrooms at Chicken

The locals make light of the name.

Downtown Chicken

Bill found this 5 oz nugget in 1996 around the Chicken area - I guess it is a bit like golf - one good round and it keeps you going for years.

Tok was back on the Alaska Highway – a good camp to give Connie a scrub down and wash away the dust. And 100 miles along the road was Delta Junction – the end of the Alaska Highway.

"Official" end of the Alaska Highway at Delta Junction

Another photo before heading for Fairbanks – but that will be next time.