Wednesday 26 September 2012

September Newsletter 7



USA / Canada, Newsletter 7 - September, 2012

So back in Nova Scotia and another visit to Fort Louisbourg, the reconstructed French Fort of the 1740’s
Fort Louisbourg
Fort Louisbourg
Governor's Dining Room
when all the struggles between the French and English for sovereignty over North America were in full swing.
Governor's Bedroom
So much we hadn’t seen three weeks before. The weather was holding, warm sunny days and needing the light douna at night.
Louisbourg - street scene
 We then headed north east to the large peninsula with the pretty, scenic, coastal route named The Cabot Trail (rhyming with "rabbit tail").
Cabot Trail, East Coast

Neil's Harbour, Cabot Trail
Two more sunny, warm days to do walks in the National Park, to stop at some of the lookouts along the way, and to enjoy seafood chowder at one of the many fishing villages. 
Cabot Trail - East Coast


Bras D’or is a very large expanse of water surrounded by the eastern side of Nova Scotia – a most favoured place to live. After making his fortune (having invented the telephone), 
Telephones
Alexander Graham Bell was able to build a mansion near Baddock 

A G Bell Museum - Baddock
and spend the rest of his life “inventing.” The museum, a collection of these inventions, was quite interesting. 
A G Bell - Hydrofoil
He was always fascinated with speech and “sound” and spent a lot of his life teaching the deaf to speak and communicate, including Helen Keller.
Then it rained – all day, so we did the road trip south, and almost made Halifax. 
Halifax - Old Town Clock
The following day it started to clear in the afternoon – perfect to visit the Citadel, a massive fortified site, built and rebuilt over 200 years,
Inside the Citadel, Halifax
protecting the Harbour, where even as recent as WW2, the conveys of ships assembled here to cross the Atlantic.
We’d met Nancy, Dana and Darleen, motorcycling in Newfoundland. Nancy lived in Halifax and insisted we spend the day exploring her city and surrounds, with her and Dave.
Dave and Nancy - Peggy's Cove Lighthouse
We all had a great day and saw it in brilliant sunshine – Memorial to the Swiss Air disaster in 1998,
Swiss Air Disaster Memorial, Sept. 2, 1998
Peggy’s Cove - a photographer’s delight, 
Peggy's Cove
Peggy's Cove
Carving in Rock - Peggy's Cove
Pier 21 – the landing point for millions of Canadian immigrants last century, 
Welcome to Canada - Pier 21
and the foreshore walkway, past renovated storehouses and

wharves, restaurants and artisan galleries.
J & G with Samuel Cunard
Last stop was the Fairview Lawn Cemetery 
Titanic victims

Titanic victim

Titanic victim from Australia

Jack Dawson?

Titanic "baby" victim
to pause a while at the grave sites of some of the victims of the Titanic – 100 yrs ago. To “top off the day” we came back to the camp and had a BBQ and a bottle of Australian Red.
A BBQ and a bottle of red
South of Halifax are beautiful seaside towns, fishing harbours and holiday places. Mahone Bay and Lunenburg were so picturesque in sunshine.
 
Lunenburg Harbour


Houses in Lunenburg

More Houses in Lunenburg
 So we went across to Annapolis Royal to visit the tidal power station on the Bay of Fundy (with it’s extreme tides) and the 1600’s French trading post nearby.
Fort Royal
Many furs at Fort Royal
The next day rain again. We’d booked the afternoon ferry out of Digby to Saint John, so tried the famous Digby scallops for lunch, 

Scallops, shrimp, mussels and clams - Digby N S
and had a calm, wet, misty three hour crossing. We had been aware of a possible hurricane that had been making its way up the east coast of America for over a week. 
Theodore Too
We were very fortunate as it made its presence felt the day after we’d left and dropped 150 mls of rain and very strong winds right up the coast to Newfoundland.
Nova Scotia - sense of humour

Jane and John welcomed us again and we had Aussie lamb for dinner. 
Irving's Nature Walk, Saint John
Spent the next day sharing photos of our trip to PEI and Newfoundland, having the RV serviced, a haircut and a forest walk along the coast. 
Number plates are usually  on the back
We had to go back and check on the sculptors whose works will be unveiled at the end of the week. 
Sculptors at Work
They had done a lot and we will be interested to see the completed art works.
Sculpture in the making
And so sadly we had to say goodbye to Jane and John. We’d had such a good time sharing their country and culture, and decided we are very similar.


The Saint John River starts about 670 kms NW from Saint John (the city) and the Trans Canada Highway (TCH), follows it almost to The St Lawrence Seaway. The capital of New Brunswick, Fredericton, was our first stop along the river. Lord Beaverbrook was a Canadian who made his fortune in newspapers and has donated a wonderful art collection of English porcelain, furniture and paintings. 
Beaverbrook Art Gallery - Fredericton
One of the curators had us intrigued with the story of the Dali acquisitions and had us on the floor looking up at the Santiago El Grande (1957) experiencing the 3D effect of the painting.
Further along the river, a large hyrdo dam was being built in the 1960’s. In 1783, 15,000 United Empire Loyalists were granted land along the river based on their rank in the British Army. Many of their historical buildings would “go under”, when the dam waters rose over 50 metres, so the best were moved – 11 houses, 
1830's Loyalist's House
2 churches, a school, store and sawmill, 
Saw Mill
and Kings Landing was created. 
Staff at King's Landing
Each house and trade, has been restored to a different time period in the early 1800’s. 
The Blacksmith
They were meticulously researched and the history presented is based on real families. 
Cooking in the 1850's
They all have “staff”, cooking (jams, preserves, stews and cookies), 
Tried Spinning
spinning, weaving or working in gardens and barns on a back-breeding program for livestock, 
Farm fencing
vegetables and flowers. (I was given a recipe for apple butter).
Antiques from the 1800's
A lot of the antique furniture and porcelain must be worth a fortune. 
Staffordshire Dogs
There was a complete Royal Albert tea-service commemorating Victoria’s Coronation in one cabinet.
A Dining Room
We enjoyed King’s Landing so much we camped overnight in the nearby truck stop and went back the next day.
The next stop was Hartland Bridge across the river. It’s the longest covered bridge- 400+ m. So we parked, walked, took photos and then drove through it. 
Hartland Covered Bridge
We were now well into “French speaking” territory. New Brunswick has 30% French speakers and everything in the province has the dual signage (double the cost).
The river at its narrowest point is at Grand Falls where it is forced through a narrow, 1.6 km rocky gorge, with walls as high as 80m. 
Grand Falls Gorge
It’s been a dry summer and the backed up waters are used for hydro generation, so the “falls” were not spectacular but the gorge was. 

Grand Falls Gorge
Photos after snow melt showed an awesome body of water crashing over the drop and through the narrow, winding channel. At the visitors centre I was in awe of a quilt representing the work and scenic places of the town - all very French.
Grand Falls Quilt
And so we turned left at the St Lawrence, into the province of Quebec and continued on the TCH to Quebec City. We didn’t’ think it was a good idea to take Connie into the old city. The ferry from the south side looked convenient so we parked there and caught it over.
Quebec City
From the deck the city looked very GRAND!!??  We walked all day exploring in the sunshine: 
Porte St-Jean
the Parliament building, the Citadel, 
Quebec City Wall
Governors Walk, the 1600’s foundations of the first St Louis Fort and Chateaux beneath the Dufferin cliff walkway, 
Dufferin Walkway
the Basilica and of course the Hotel on the cliff, Chateau Frontenac. 
Copper Roof shining in the sunlight
Below the cliffs the old port is total touristy. 
The Old Port
Old buildings are restored with up market shopping and bars and restaurants. We celebrated Jen’s birthday 
Restaurante, Le Lapin Sortie
with a duck and rabbit combination dish, 
Dinner for Two
caught the ferry back in the evening and free camped in the parking lot – the ticket was good for 24 hrs.
Quebec City at Night
The next morning was a little dull so we drove the couple of hours to Montreal. Last time we were here, the tower to the 1976 Olympic Main Stadium wasn’t finished (completed in 1988), and since the day was clear with some clouds around we took the funicular to the observation deck - fantastic view of the city, the wide river and bridges. From the port, cruise liners start and finish East coast trips.   
Original Main Stadium for Montreal Olympics 1976
The structure is unique and the tower has quite a lean, with cables like long fingers holding onto the insulated Teflon and Kavlar roof.

Ottawa the next day, and we parked in the city at a government employees car park-it was Sunday, so no workers. We were able to walk to the Victorian – style Parliament House and the tour took us up the Peace Tower to the viewing level (just below the clockface). 
Parliament House - Ottawa


Another perfect blue sky day so we walked to the Rideau Canal locks, built in 1832, 
Rideau Canal locks in Ottawa


Eight Locks of the Rideau Canal
and then over the Ottawa River on the Alexander Bridge
Riverside of Parliament House, Ottawa

to the Museum of Civilization. It was really exceptional with wonderful displays and interpretations of everything Canadian. 
Canadian Museum of Civilization
Nearly three hours later they are suggesting we leave as its closing.

Main Hall in Museum
The next few days we met friends of Brian and Penny (from Yass).  Brian taught here at Appleby College 23 years ago. We were made very welcome, firstly by Fran and Sue, 
Sue and Fran Richardson with Jen and Garry
and had guided tours around Meaford, 
Georgian Bay
on Georgian Bay (part of Lake Huron), 
Storm over Georgian Bay
which was preparing for the Scarecrow Invasion Festival,

Scarecrows everywhere...

...for the Scarecrow Invasion


and then by John, Di and Barbara, 
John and Di Berriman, Barbara Smith with Jen and Garry
where we visited the school in Oakville on Lake Ontario. 

Grassy Quadrangle and Chapel

Playing fields, overlooking Lake Ontario

Shirley and Glenn live on a farm near Barrie. 
The Applegate Farm buildings
Shirley came to Orange on exchange almost 20 years ago and was David’s teacher. We have always kept in touch so couldn’t pass by without spending time together. 
Glenn, Shirley, Jen and Garry
We visited markets 
St Jacob's Markets
and shops in nearby Mennonite towns, 
Need a broom?
were shown by their friend how he harvests and processes maple syrup in his sugar shack, 
Ronnie's Sugar Shack
and visited the re-constructed site of first European settlement in Ontario – Sainte Marie among the Hurons 
Sainte Marie among the Hurons
– founded by French Jesuits in 1639. 
Re-constricted fort and vegetable garden
They were here for ten years trading with, and converting the Wendat, (first nation people).
Re-constructed Wendat Long House
We also found a covered bridge, known locally as the "Kissing Bridge"

The Kissing Bridge
In Toronto we took a train trip 
GO trains in Toronto
and walked around the city, 
Toronto City Skyline
and the next day we camped near the Welland canal, 
Entering the Lock
the by-pass of Niagara Falls. We stood facinated for a couple of hours watching the huge ships come through the locks.
Exiting the Lock

Continuing on...
 later we visited Fort George, part of the 1812 War between England and America.


Fort George
And so to Niagara 
Niagara Falls
where we caught the WeGo buses to the sites along the gorge, 
American Falls
Canadian Horseshoe Falls
past the rapids and whirlpool, to the Falls. The Maid of the Mist was our big excitement for the day
The Maid of the Mist
and if we’d stood at the front of the boat we would have been saturated.
Rainbow seen from The Maid of the Mist
And so over the border after seven great weeks in six provinces of Canada, heading for New York and meeting up with Carolyn (for her birthday) and Gavin who are flying in from London.....

It was while we were with Shirley and Glenn we heard of Jen’s Mum’s unexpected death. She was admitted to hospital the week before for tests etc. Her heart was only working at 40% and she contracted double pneumonia. Lyn and Kerrie were able to be with her during this time and having landline phone connection at Shirley’s made contact so much simpler. We had talked with her every week of our trip and she loved to share her stories as she too had visited a many places here. It had been six years and six days since Dad had died and she’d missed him every day. She always said she’d had a really happy life so eighty eight years was a “pretty good innings”. We received many notes of condolence and support from friends and family, and were really appreciative of their thoughtfulness.

We are now working on our last newsletter. We are thinking where to leave our Connie for Winter, before making our way to LA and home.
Jen and Garry

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