Newsletter 3 - May 2013

The Post offices here are hard to find. They are always away from the town shops and shopping centres and tend to be on the edge of town with plenty of land and parking area around. We seem to be past them before we see them and they are not usually signposted. Other than that, stamps can be bought at the supermarket – they don’t always have them. In the country, for mail delivery, you will see up to thirty different boxes some supported on a wooden frame at the beginning of the road. 

Modern day Pony Express

Mail is delivered by little vans, and letter boxes in suburbia are grouped. You have your own key to open your box and the box to post. So we can’t use these and have to find a PO to post mail. We are not posting many postcards.

Neighbourhood mail boxes

The trip up the West Texas plains was cross country on good secondary roads – not a lot of traffic. We left Houston at 45 ft above sea level and by the time we got to Abilene we were about 2000 ft. Lubbock (birthplace of Buddy Holly) is 3000ft and the next night in Amarillo we were more than 4000ft above sea level.  We finally got to try a Whataburger in Lubbock, which is more like an "real" hamburger than the McDonald's style.

What a burger! The only thing lacking was beetroot, pineapple and a fried egg.

We hadn’t noticed the climb as most of the country looked flat. It seemed to get drier and drier – some cattle, and it seemed water was subterranean and pumped up by windmills as we didn’t see any dams. Also there were lots of areas where Pump Jacks were bringing up the oil.

Jack pumps are probably a lot more productive than crops?

These are all over Texas.  A couple would be nice.

North of Amarillo was lots of cropping (mainly corn, some cotton) with huge centre pivoted irrigators making gigantic circles on the landscape. We could never get above them for a photo as the land was so flat. The “circles” must be interesting from the air.

On the road to Colorado

We crossed the top corner of New Mexico and big snow topped mountains came into view, but the countryside was still very dry and like dessert. Mesas and hills grew gradually and a “perfectly” shaped volcano, Mt Capulin, surrounded with black lava flows and ash was not far from the Highway.

Capulin Volcano

We followed the railway for hundreds of miles. We counted the carriages of one goods train, 120 plus two diesels at the back and two at the front.

A long train coming

There are always places we would like to go but the RV can be a bit restrictive. Turning it around needs a lot of space and multi-storied carparks are totally out of the question. So smaller towns always appeal to us. 

Downtown Trinidad Colorada

Avenue of state flags at Trinidad Colorado

Trinidad, just over the border into Colorado was one of these. There were some lovely old buildings, built when it was a big coal producing area in the mid 1800s. 

Miner's Memorial Trinidad Colorado

 Nearby we camped in the State Park before heading off on the scenic Highway of Legends in the morning.

Another 10,000ft pass

Farley Overlook on the Highway of Legends

On the Highway of Legends

We saw deer, turkeys, mountains capped in snow, lakes with lots of fishermen, interesting rock formations and little villages with 100 year old stone buildings. Another city was Pueblo. 

Prince Charming waiting for the show to start at Pueblo Colorado

Riverwalk Pueblo Colorado

The Arkansas River flooded the centre of town ruining most buildings in 1921.  Now the river is re-routed and small barges take the tourists around the Riverwalk area, with cafes, bronze statues, fountains and water spouts to entertain children during the hot summers here.

A very new large building is the National Headquarters for

A tough way to make a living

Professional Bull Riders (PBR), and they are establishing a type of university to train promoters, gate-openers, bull riders, time keepers and rodeo clowns, as the sport is expanding in Brazil, Mexico, Canada and Australia.

That afternoon we drove to have a look at the Royal Gorge Suspension Bridge across the Arkansas River.

Royal Gorge Suspension Bridge and associated attractions

It was spectacular, across the deep canyon, but it didn’t go anywhere and was built as “a tourist spot” with amusement park activities – soaring eagle zip lines (flying fox), aerial trams, sky coaster etc. We camped that night looking out to snow covered mountains.

So a little further north is Colorado Springs with The Garden of the Gods, an area of evergreens with awe inspiring ancient red sandstone rock formations, given to the city as a park.

Garden of the Gods - overview

Garden of the Gods internal drive

You can drive/cycle through it, with picnic areas and lots of hiking trails where you can view the formations up close.

Garden of the Gods - balancing rock

There are many tourist spots in this area and the small town of Manitou Springs at the base of Pikes Peak is one.

Manitou Springs

Manitou Springs buskers

We planned to go up the mountain on the cog railway, and waited until the next morning to see what the weather was like before we booked. We had a very enjoyable morning climbing about 8000 ft from the town to the Peak with deep snow and cold winds at the top.

Manitou Springs terminal for the Pikes Peak cog railway

The track up the peak

Pikes Peak terminal

One of 25 peaks above 14,000ft in Colorado

Mule deer sited on the way down the mountain

Denver, offers all those activities big cities do, art, theatre, museums, public buildings and historical buildings etc but there are so many places to go for a day’s trip out of the city.

Nice Sunday drive through Denver

We arrived on a Sunday so there was no problem driving through the city on the six lane Interstate- in fact that’s better than taking ring roads. We planned to travel the Peak to Peak Scenic Byway which goes “up close and parallel” to the Continental Divide.

There were not too many places we could pull over as it went through the gorge (sheer cliffs) following the river, and then up onto the mountains at about 8000 ft, through old gold mining towns and national forests. We camped that night at Estes Park, just out of Rocky Mountains National Park with views in all directions.

Connie in the snow near Rainbow Curve

The highest road pass over the Rockies (just over 12,000ft) was still closed but we were able to drive up to Rainbow Curve (10,600ft) with the occasional snow flurry as the high clouds raced overhead and the sun came out in between.

A couple of intrepid travelers at another overlook in the Rocky Mountains National Park

The views were breathtaking.

A couple of nights in Fort Collins gave us a chance to shop, wash, fix a couple of minor problems and plan the next part of the trip, Wyoming, Teton and Yellowstone.

Newsletter 2 - May 2013

Newsletter 2

So we’re back in the RV – felt very comfortable, like coming home. It didn’t take too many days before we remembered where everything was. We did a big shop and stocked the fridge then set off towards San Antonio – 1270 miles (2030km) away. We wanted to spend a couple of days with Bev and Ross before they left on their Caribbean cruise.

Great street signs in Wickenburg

Found a Horspitality camp at Wickenburg that caters for RVers with horses that like to do trail rides on ranches. We met three ladies who have been coming here for years and enjoyed the chatting in the evening. 

Saguaro (large cactus) pronounced "sa,warow"

The town is one of the most tourist friendly places we have stumbled upon displaying its wild western roots. It was originally a mining town in mid 1800’s, then the railway went through and many stayed and established ranches and businesses when the gold ran out. 

Western Museum at Wickenburg

There was a museum on the history of the town with the art gallery above. The exhibition was "desert girls and their art", and showed lots of cowboys of today at work and play. 

Wickenburg Cafe with what "modern" cowboys ride, parked out front

We enjoyed the self guided town walk with lots of animated figures that "talked" to you and we chatted to the volunteers in the caboose behind the old steam loco.

Wickenburg Livery

Drove the 40 miles of motorways through sprawling flat Phoenix to Tucson with the GPS “doing her thing”. 

Interchange art

More interchange art

The RV parks down here are huge. So many northerners come to stay four of more months, to escape their winter, and people from Saskatchewan were staying longer, as a late snow fall dumped another six foot of snow at their place in Regina.

SR 71 Blackbird

A-10 Thunderbolt known as the "Warthog"  An armoured 30mm flying canon that could deliver 4200 rounds per minute.  Destroyed several thousand tanks and other vehicles in the first Gulf War.

The place we wanted to see here was the Pima Air and Space Museum 

Airforce One used by Presidents Kennedy and Johnson

Specially designed transport for Saturn rockets.  The assembly plant was in California and the launch facility was in Florida so this was the only way to keep the project running.

and to drive past the "bone yard" of the old air force planes- 1000’s of them, all lined up, neat and tidy, waiting for “who knows what”!

B52's in the "bone yard"

More planes in the "bone yard"

The Mission San Xavier, built in the late 1700’s is considered America’s finest surviving example of Spanish Colonial architecture with original interior painting and carved wooden statues.

Mission San Xavier near Tucson

Restoration and preservation of the Mission is ongoing. The original artists who came from Spain earned double pay as the Apaches were a constant threat. It is still a working church and had a warm feeling with the simple paintings and furniture.

Mission San Xavier interior

Mission San Xavier cactus garden

Two other places we would have liked to have visited were Frank Lloyd Wright’s, Taliesin West home (and architectural laboratory) at Scottsdale, and the Biosphere 2 Science Centre. Will have to be “next time”.

So a quick visit to Tombstone “the town too tough to die” with a grand Victorian courthouse (now a museum) and stagecoach rides up the main street. 

Tombstone - stagecoach rides up the main street

Tombstone street scene

Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury, and Billy Clanton, killed by the Earp bothers and Doc Holliday in the gunfight at the O.K. Corral, are buried in the town's "Boot Hill," which refers to the number of men who died with their boots on. Deputy U.S. Marshal Sheriff, Virgil Earp and his temporary deputies and brothers Wyatt Earp and Morgan Earp had pursued these cowboys, who were suspected of the murders of the two stagecoach drivers that were carrying silver bullion. Although soon after, Virgil was seriously wounded, and Morgan was killed, and the assailants, although identified, were never prosecuted. The “shoot up” is re-enacted for the tourists.

General Store of 1880's

1880's seamstress

The Bird Cage Theatre, named for the 14 bird cage crib compartments suspended from the ceiling over the gambling casino and dance hall, is still there in all its glory.

Cowgirl Bling

So the next day we made it across New Mexico – travelling just north of the border, following the railway and for a time along the Rio Grande. There was lots of dry desert but some pecan orchards, dairying and wine growing in areas closer to the river. As we got nearer to San Antonio there were trees and lots of wild flowers along the road. They’ve had rain and it’s quite an oasis.

We had a lovely time with Bev and Ross.

Bev and Ross's place in San Antonio

Organised the RV’s registration and Jen even had some time in a quilting fabric shop. A cold change came through with strong winds. San Antonio had its coldest May day on record, 58F (15C) so we stayed another night until the wind dropped and then headed south to Corpus Christi on the coast. 

Corpus Christi Bridge

It was very quiet in the downtown – we had arrived on the first Friday of the month – museums were free, so we went to the art gallery to see the brilliant glass art. There was even a callistemon in full colour in the courtyard.

Corpus Christi Art Museum

We walked along the seafront wall where a ten billionth scale model of the solar system has been set up. The sun is about the size of a large grapefruit and the earth is about four steps away and barely more than a pinprick. Makes you feel extremely insignificant.

Corpus Christi Marina

It was a pretty drive around the Bay area to the long sand islands protecting the coast. 

Gulf of Mexico beach

Paddling in another ocean

Jen paddled in the Gulf of Mexico and then we crossed the main port channel on a ferry (one of five operating at the same time to cope with vehicular traffic). We camped that night in another RV resort that was nearly empty. There are so many of these to cope with the migration over the northern winter. They are set up so well for “grey nomads”. Try Googling www.lagoonsrv.com to see the amenities etc. We thought we’d be up for a squillion when it came to pay but no, $36. Of course if you stay more than one night it becomes cheaper.

The next morning we stopped at the Fulton mansion (a state historic site) which was built to withstand hurricane force winds. 

Fulton Mansion

It is empty at the moment but we were able to walk through the three storied home built in 1877 by George and Harriet Fulton. There have been many owners and now the state is restoring it to its former glory. It will be grand. We also picked up another brochure of another historic home on the road we were travelling so called into there to. Varner-Hogg Plantation. 

Varner-Hogg Plantation

The slaves of Columbus Patton, the second owner, built the home as well as smokehouse, the sugar mill and their own quarters. Gradually over time and many owners later, it changed to ranching until 1901 when former Texas Governor James Hogg purchased the property. 

Varner-Hogg dining room

Varner-Hogg piano with Staffordshire dogs

He was convinced that large amounts of oil lay beneath the surface. Well oil was not found in his time but his will recommended that the children not sell the mineral rights for 15 years. A few years later the four Hogg heirs did strike oil and became wealthy overnight.

On our way to Galveston we realised Sunday afternoon coastal traffic was a nightmare. So we turned around and went to Jenny and George’s place.

Jenny and George's place in Houston

We’d spent time with them last year while we were buying the van and it was lovely to catch up with them again. Jen Smith was having a tooth problem and was able to see their local dentist for some treatment, so the few days wait gave us time to do photos, finish the first blog, shop at the outlets for some clothes, clean the van and repack things.

But then we found out she needed root canal therapy. Fortunately she could get an appointment with an endodontist in two days. Three hours in “the chair” and he announced he couldn’t find the canal and to come back on Monday. At least it happened where we could easily get treatment.

So we finally made it back to Galveston for the four days, and so glad we did.

Flash houses on stilts next to the coast on Galveston Island

More raised houses - the Gulf of Mexico is at the end of the road

During the 1850’s Galveston became the largest port west of New Orleans and the largest city in Texas. Cotton was exported and when the railway was connected to Santa Fe and Colorado, businessmen and entrepreneurs flocked to the city. 

Ships lined up to come into Galveston Harbour

Beautiful mansions were built by the many wealthy families,

Galveston houses

More Galveston houses

while downtown retains the largest concentration of iron front commercial architecture in the country. We took a ride around the Downtown to have a look at them. 

Horse and buggy ride around Galveston CBD

So we visited two mansions, now museums: the Bishop’s Palace – so named because the Grisham family, who’d built it in 1889, sold it in 1920 to the Catholic Church for the Bishop to live in until the 1940’s,

Bishop's Palace

 and the Moody Mansion, lived in by that family until 1980. Both had beautiful woodwork, spacious rooms, large windows to let in the evening breezes and shutters to keep the house cool during the day.

Moody Mansion

But of course you’ve all heard of the hurricanes that hit this coast. The particularly brutal one of 1900 left a trail of devastation and more than 6000 lost their lives- the worst ever natural disaster of this country! The seventeen feet of water in the downtown took six days to drain away.

Downtown Galveston

Downtown Galveston on the Strand

Downtown Galveston - Strand sidewalk

Amazingly those who stayed after the storm, raised the entire level of the city by eight feet, seventeen feet at the Seawall, slanting the ground so that the water would run off into Galveston Bay. 

Galveston Seawall

Galveston Hurricane Memorial

The grade raising was so successful that when another severe hurricane hit in 1915, the city was safe and only eight people lost their lives. When Hurricane “Ike” struck in 2008, some homes suffered damage, and most of Galveston Island was covered in a tidal surge. 

The Fun Pier has been rebuilt 

Galveston Fun Pier

and Bubba Gump is the front line restaurant.

Galveston Fun Pier

The powerful winds and waves uprooted many of the city’s mature trees (mainly oaks), and the green canopy that once graced the Island was destroyed.Many of these trees were sculptured into whimsical shapes and are now in gardens.

Toto and the Tin Man carved from trees destroyed from Hurricane Ike

Down on the Harbourside a Cook-Off was in full swing. 

Great BBQ produce

It’s a competition and fundraiser for the Lighthouse Charity. Really “fancy” BBQ’s with sponsored teams were all busy preparing dishes of pork, chicken, brisket, beef ribs and game.

Like everything else - even BBQs are bigger in Texas

So we left the city via the ferry to Bolivar and drove further along the coast before turning north to return to Houston.

Cape Bolivar lighthouse

The next visit to the dentist went well and we were able to leave the following morning and head north towards Colorado – so that will be next time.